The most anticipated game of the Cricket World Cup may be the Pakistan-India game on Sunday. The nations are bitter rivals, and their cricket teams rarely meet. There is one thing their fans do agree on, though: Biryani is the best thing to eat at a cricket match. The rice dish is a favorite all over the Indian subcontinent. Each culture has its own way of preparing biryani, but the desi restaurants in the area around the World Cup stadium in East Meadow, N.Y., are used to serving up multiple styles.

Each of the three biryani shops closest to the stadium in Eisenhower Park has halal meat, restricted beef options and a range of vegetarian dishes. But the most popular item on all three restaurant menus is the biryani.

Biryani became associated with cricket partly because of the sport's format. The oldest version of the game lasts five days. Fans eat multiple meals from early morning until evening. The breaks in the play are even named after mealtimes. The World Cup format is much shorter, about as long as a baseball game. But in any format of cricket, there's a long pause before each play. It's the perfect amount of time to scoop meat, rice, yogurt and other condiments onto a spoon.

There are over 35 kinds of biryanis across the Indian subcontinent, with each city offering varying flavors. Like cricket, the Indo-Pak rivalry plays out over biryani as well. Vegetarian biryani is more popular in India, along with chicken and mutton — but not beef, which most Hindus avoid. In Pakistan, meat biryani is more common — but never pork, which is forbidden in Islam.

Sahar's Kitchen and Chai — Karachi style

In East Meadow, the desi restaurants have both Hindu and Muslim customers. At Sahar's Kitchen and Chai, Mohammed Rehman, who comes from a Bangladeshi family, offers a Karachi-style biryani with the raita, a yogurt sauce, on the side — trademark Pakistani flavors!

Rehman loves watching cricket with a plate of biryani. "Biryani is a quick eat and fills you up," he says, adding descriptions of various subcontinental biryanis. “The Pakistani is more dried, with more sauce on top. The Indian has more spices. And Bangladesh is more curried.”

The Royale — biryani diversity

The Royale Restaurant & Bar serves alcohol and meat dishes, but that hasn't stopped devout Muslims and religiously vegetarian Hindus from eating there. For Royale owner Amrinder Singh, this is a reflection of Indian diversity. "We are very respectful towards any religion, any ethnicity," Singh says, adding that while his restaurant cooks all its food in the same place, it is happy to modify recipes according to diners' needs.

Subcontinental diversity is reflected in the Royale’s menu, which features prawn biryani and cheese biryani as well. This is the go-to place for the authentic Indian biryani from Hyderabad.

Spice and Curry — a longtime favorite for all kinds of people

The East Meadow biryani trail ends at Spice & Curry Kabab & Grill, the oldest desi restaurant in the area. Despite describing itself as a Pakistani restaurant, Spice & Curry doesn't have beef biryani on its menu. "Beef biryani is not very common. We make it on special orders. We also customize vegetarian options, including the chana [chickpea] biryani” says owner Naveed Haroon.

Customers from both India and Pakistan attend biryani-loaded cricket screenings at both the Royale and Spice & Curry. While the Indo-Pak banter prevails, there's no trace of any hostility. "It's all politics. In Nassau County, there's a big population of Indians and Pakistanis. And they get along," Haroon says.

Royale owner Amrinder Singh echoes the same sentiment, citing the example of his former roommate from Pakistan. "He lives in Virginia. He comes to see me — I go to see him. The emotions are the same."

Both Singh and Haroon agree that the U.S. co-hosting the Cricket World Cup is going to significantly enhance the popularity of the sport in the U.S. and along with it introduce biryani to a wider audience. But are they prepared to cater to a large number of diverse customers? The answer can be found in Spice & Curry’s kitchen, where the chef shows you how the restaurant's biryani is cooked.

First up, oil goes into a daig, a large pot. Then they add a bag of dried onions and fresh tomato puree, followed by a number of spices, including red chili powder, turmeric powder and zeera coriander. Once the sauce is ready, in goes the basmati rice. Meat or vegetables are separately added to create different biryanis.

While the customers might have their preferred cricket team or biryani, they are bound by the love for both. "The food is going to unite the love. No matter what kind of rivalry they have on the field, when they'll be back, they'll enjoy the food," Singh says.

Copyright 2024 NPR

Transcript

SCOTT DETROW, HOST:

Earlier this week, the U.S. shocked the cricket world by beating powerhouse Pakistan in the T20 Cricket World Cup. As Pakistan looks to stay alive in the tournament, it has a pivotal match tomorrow in New York against its bitter rival India. As deep as the rivalry runs, there is one thing their fans do agree on, though - that biryani, the South Asian rice dish, is the best thing to eat at a cricket match. Kunwar Khuldune Shahid has the story.

KUNWAR KHULDUNE SHAHID, BYLINE: Recently, I went to East Meadow, where India and Pakistan will play on June 9. The biryani shops in the area were buzzing with anticipation.

NAVEED HAROON: In Nassau County, there is a big population of Indian people, big population of Pakistani people.

SHAHID: Naveed Haroon is the owner of the Spice & Curry. He is Pakistani, but his customer base comes from all over the subcontinent. One of the restaurant's oldest customers, Saad (ph), is excited about watching cricket and eating biryani right next to the Nassau County Cricket Stadium.

SAAD: It would be a huge in-demand item, and they're probably going to need to step up their game for the supply part. But yeah, biryani and cricket, they go hand in hand, man.

SHAHID: Biryani became associated with cricket partly because of the sport's format. The oldest version lasts five days. Fans eat multiple meals from early morning till evening each day. The breaks in the play are even named after meal times. The World Cup format is much shorter, about as long as a baseball game. But in any format of cricket, there's a long pause before each play. It's the perfect amount of time to scoop meat, rice, yogurt and other condiments onto a spoon. Most South Asian immigrants, like Saad, cherish the fact that in the U.S., they get to enjoy biryani from both India and Pakistan, which is not possible in the countries of their origin.

SAAD: All the Desis love biryani, whether it's from Bombay or like Sindhi biryani or whichever one you prefer.

SHAHID: However, like cricket, the Indo-Pak rivalry plays out over biryani as well. Vegetarian biryani is more popular in India along with chicken and mutton, but not beef, which most Hindus avoid. In Pakistan, meat biryani is more common, but never pork, which is forbidden in Islam. Despite hardliners defining vegetarianism and meat eating through the Hindu-Muslim dichotomy, historian Anil Maheshwari stresses that these labels are not just bigoted but also inaccurate.

ANIL MAHESHWARI: The best mutton is prepared by the Hindu Kayasthe. They adopted the dress of the Muslims. They adopted the language of the Muslim. They love their mutton biryani.

SHAHID: And he notes that in the U.S., people from the Indian subcontinent ignore their food differences and see their commonalities.

MAHESHWARI: Outside the Indian subcontinent, they are Asian.

SHAHID: In East Meadow, I experienced this firsthand when I got to go inside Spice & Curry's kitchen to cook biryani for a dining room full of Pakistani and Indian customers. First up, we put oil into a daig, a large pot. Then we add a bag of dried onions. Then in goes fresh tomato puree and many, many spices, including red chili powder, turmeric powder and zeera coriander. Once the sauce is ready, we add basmati rice. Meat or vegetables are separately added to create meat and vegetarian biryanis. I take a bite of the chicken biryani.

Outstanding. Tastes absolutely amazing.

It takes me right back to cricket games in the subcontinent. To complete the Indo-Pak biryani experience, I walk across to the Indian-owned the Royale Restaurant and Bar. The Royale has both devout Hindus and Muslims as regulars, even though it serves alcohol, which is forbidden in Islam, and meat options, which religiously vegetarian Hindus would avoid. First things first - I had to eat authentic Indian biryani from Hyderabad, which is so hard to find in Pakistan.

Wow. Oh, it's packed with flavor. Absolutely delicious.

SHAHID: Owner Amrinder Singh says what is truly subcontinental is embracing diversity, which he expects to see at the Cricket World Cup as well.

MAHESHWARI: The food is going to unite the love. No matter what kind of rivalry they have on the field, when they'll be back, they'll enjoy the food.

SHAHID: Pakistan and India will meet Sunday in the Cricket World Cup. And no matter the score, the stands selling biryani are sure to come out on top. For NPR News, I'm Kunwar Khuldun Shahid.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC) Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.

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