At a Russian restaurant in NYC, the terrors of war hit home
The Manhattan restaurant Russian Samovar is surrounded by glittering Broadway marquees, but its front door has two simple signs on it: "Stand by Ukraine. NO WAR" — and a printed Ukrainian flag.
Inside, there's a red carpet, a long wooden bar, and a white piano.
John Retsios sits at the bar drinking vodka infused with dill and horseradish. He's been coming to Russian Samovar for almost 20 years and was relieved to see the new signs on the front door.
"I was like, oh, of course, of course, we're all on the same page here." Retsios says.
Russian Samovar's third-generation owner, Misha Von Shats, is one of many New York City business owners grappling with Russia's invasion of Ukraine. But he also faces a somewhat unique challenge — making sure the "Russian" in Russian Samovar doesn't drive customers away. Von Shats says, in the first few days after the invasion, business fell more than 50 percent.
"We have many Ukrainians that work for us. We need business in order for them to make money, for them to support and send money out there," Von Shats says.
Von Shats is Russian and Ukrainian and still has family in Ukraine. He removed a bust of Putin from the dining room. He hopes to host fundraisers for Ukraine, and wants to gather and raise the flags of every former Soviet Republic state to show unity and support.
Von Shats says the restaurant's accordion and piano player lost his niece, who was a secretary at an army base in Ukraine.
"So I had a grown man, somebody I'd known for years crying, crying in my arms," Von Shats says.
One employee is stuck in Ukraine after going to visit family a few days before Russia invaded. Others are terrified for their loved ones back home.
For Maria Medviedva, who has been a server at Russian Samovar for over nine years, showing up to work feels bizarre. As she waits tables and serves Chicken Kyiv, piroshki, and honey cake, her family in Kharkiv is hiding underground from Russian attacks.
"I'm not deserving to be here. I'm not deserving, like to have food, you know, to sleep," Medviedva says.
Medviedva wonders whether she should return to Ukraine — she's a pharmacist and could be helpful giving medicines to injured soldiers and civilians. But ultimately, she says earning money to send back home is the best thing she can do right now.
And, work is a distraction from group chats about bombings and where to find food.
"What is going on? It shouldn't be in any part of this world at all. Nobody deserves this," she says.
Medviedva fears that any moment, she'll find out the day's phone call with her parents was the last.
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Transcript
SARAH MCCAMMON, HOST:
As Russia's invasion of Ukraine continues, New York City restaurants with roots in both countries are watching the terror of war reach dining tables, bar counters and kitchens. Camille Petersen has this report from Russian Samovar, a restaurant in Manhattan.
CAMILLE PETERSEN, BYLINE: Russian Samovar is surrounded by glittering Broadway marquees, but the restaurant's front door has two simple signs on it - stand by Ukraine, no war and a printed Ukrainian flag. Inside there is a red carpet, a long wooden bar and a white piano. John Retsios is drinking vodka infused with dill and horseradish. He's been coming here for almost 20 years.
JOHN RETSIOS: I didn't even have to think twice about seeing that sign on the door because I saw it and it caught my eye. And I was like, oh, of course, of course, we're all on the same page here.
PETERSEN: But the restaurant's third-generation owner, Misha Von Shats, worries other customers are staying away because of the Russian in Russian Samovar. He says in the first few days after the invasion, business already fell more than 50%.
MISHA VON SHATS: We have many Ukrainians that work for us. We need business in order for them to make money, for them to support and send money out there.
PETERSEN: Von Shats is Russian and Ukrainian. He's trying to make it clear the restaurant supports Ukraine. He removed a bust of Putin from the dining room and is hoping to host fundraisers for Ukraine. He wants to gather the flags of every former Soviet Republic state.
VON SHATS: I want to tie them all together and raise the banner. We're all one. We are all supportive.
PETERSEN: Von Shats' biggest worry is his Ukrainian employees. One is stuck in Ukraine. He went to visit family a few days before Russia invaded. Others are terrified for their loved ones back home.
VON SHATS: First thing I do is I come in, say, how's your family? How's everything? You heard from them?
PETERSEN: The restaurant's accordion and piano player lost his niece, who had worked at an army base in Ukraine.
VON SHATS: So I had a grown man, somebody I'd had known for years, crying, crying in my arms.
MARIA MEDVIEDVA: Am I supposed to be here or am I supposed to go back?
VON SHATS: For over nine years, Maria Medviedva has been a server here. She grew up in Kharkiv, where her family is hiding underground from Russian attacks. She's a pharmacist and says she could be helpful at home.
MEDVIEDVA: I'm not deserving to be here. I'm not deserving, like, to have food, you know, to sleep. But that's the only way you can help. It's like you have to help them with the money.
PETERSEN: She says her Russian co-workers are also grappling with the war.
MEDVIEDVA: They are so ashamed for their country - so ashamed, so embarrassed. And I'm seeing their eyes, like, I'm sorry, I'm feeling bad and also helplessness.
PETERSEN: For Medviedva, working at the restaurant, serving chicken Kyiv and piroshki and honey cake is a distraction from group chats about bombings and where to find food.
MEDVIEDVA: What is going on, it shouldn't be in any part of this world at all. Nobody deserves this.
PETERSEN: She fears that any moment she'll find out the day's phone call with her parents was the last.
For NPR News, I'm Camille Petersen in New York. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.
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