The Islamic State remains in full control a year after capturing the city. Relatively few ISIS fighters are visible, but they have imposed strict rules on all aspects of life.
The Kurdish security chief says his Peshmerga fighters have gained ground against ISIS. But the big prize in northern Iraq is Mosul, and he says the Iraqi army will be needed for that battle.
From a nearby mountain, Kurdish forces can see look down into the strategic city. An Iraqi-led assault on the city is planned, but for now the frustrated men hold their territory and train.
When Iraq was rapidly fracturing this summer, the Kurds started talking about independence that they've been seeking for a century. But now, the priority seems to be battling the Islamic State.
Days after breaking the siege of Mount Sinjar and freeing trapped Yazidis there, peshmerga forces were pressing an offensive to retake the town itself from the Islamist militia.
In the Kurdish city of Halabja, young men have been disappearing to join ISIS. It's a trend the authorities don't really want to discuss. But they are clamping down to try to make it stop.
The agreement could ease some pressure on Iraq's government, which is facing an economic crisis, and on Kurdish authorities who have had trouble paying government employees and security forces.
With Iraq's military in tatters and U.S. forces gone, the Kurdish peshmerga is the only viable force to stave off ISIS in Iraq. With little support from Baghdad, discontent grows among the fighters.
Syrian rebels and Iraqi peshmerga fighters have been allowed to use Turkish territory to enter the fight against militants of the self-declared Islamic State.